Brush the fish over with butter, or oil, slightly pepper and salt it, wrap it up carefully in well oiled paper, broil over a fast, clear fire, turn once, remove the papers or not, as liked, and serve.

Mullets and slices of fish are often cooked thus, while at other times the fish en pappilote is baked instead of being grilled.

The objection of the average cook to the use of the gridiron is that it necessitates a very carefully-made up fire; also, many of the modern closed ranges are not well adapted for grilling. To grill by means of a coal fire necessitates considerable care. A clear, red-hot fire must be ready just at the right moment, and it must not be touched until the grilling process is over. The cook who may have some house work to do, who has to answer the back-door bell, and prepare vegetable and other dishes, no doubt finds it inconvenient to be obliged to pay great attention to the state of the fire. In such circumstances, therefore, when possible, it is better to use a gas-griller.

When using the griller of a gas stove see that it is red-hot before the article to be grilled is put in position, and be sure that the pan containing the meat is sufficiently near the red-hot grill. A gas stove is so arranged that objects of somewhat large size can be grilled; thus, if a small thing such as the cutlet or a kidney is to be cooked, the pan containing it should be raised in some way. It is also advisable to place a large pan of water or a sheet of asbestos over the griller, in order to throw the heat down on to the meat.

The fish to be grilled should be liberally brushed over with oil or butter, peppered, placed in the pan, then pushed under the griller and cooked as quickly as possible on one side, turned and cooked on the other side. In turning, however, do not stick a fork into the fish; keep the cooked crust unbroken in order that none of the juice may escape.